Wednesday, 6 June 2012

Back to the Future!

And so this reunion has finally reached its conclusion...

Maybe for Nick, it was the therapy for a mid-life crisis....For me, I'm simply too old for such things!

Nevertheless, it has been brilliant to share the experience together, especially since our meeting up has been somewhat sporadic in recent years. So, thank you Nick for coming up with the idea and sorting out most of the arrangements.

It´s been a lot of fun travelling, eating and drinking our way down the country.

But all good things come to an end.....and tonight, I had to send Nick back to the future!

Not your Normal Time Traveller Image!
Since he is now travelling westwards across the International Date Line back to Australia, he will effectively lose a whole day - Thursday 7th June 2012 will never have happened in his lifetime! As he bypasses straight into Friday 8th June....A true time traveller....and not a DeLorean car in sight!

As for me, my flight leaves tomorrow afternoon.....And I can't wait to see my three lovely girls.

I may have used this blog to make fun of them, but love them to bits!

See you very soon.

It would have been Criminal to Miss this One!

The Lonely Planet guide book describes the Torres del Paine as the best National Park in South America.

Therefore, having reached a point within 70 kms of this attraction, we surely could not ignore such a claim.

With a clear day specifically set aside, we immediately set about organising our trip to this National Park as soon as we disembarked from our ferry at Peurto Natales.

Much to our disgust, the travel agents appeared totally apathetic. With so few tourists around in this "low" season, I would have expected them to be chasing what little business was about. However, our initial enquiries were met with responses that any day trips needed a minimum of 3 people....but they seemed reluctant to chase around for that third booking themselves!

Neither did they have a clue as to weather forecasts as a gauge to what we might be able to see if we ever reached the park. Indeed, the chances were more likely that cloud cover would be down and we wouldn't see the famous mountain peaks as portrayed on the covers of our guide books.

We were far from giving up, though time was running out since the trips normally left at 7.30am.

Luckily, our perseverance paid off......Braving the continuing blizzard, we took a side turning in town towards a main square, and discovered another travel agent, who was both incredibly helpful and was able to take our booking (and at a cheaper price than our earlier attempts).

This was not the only good fortune fate decided to lay our way...

The weather conditions for the trip could not have been better - exceptional for the time of year.

With a decent layer of snow on the ground, the skies were completely clear the whole day, providing perfect views of the Park´s famous mountain peaks.


Torres Del Paine National Park

Herd of Guanacos (Llama family)
The day reflected the true artistry of the elements, from the stunning views of the snow capped mountains, almost falsely blue-coloured ice bergs from the glaciers and finally, an amazing sunset canvass.

There was a price to pay, with the fierce, rasping and icy winds reminding us of our location. But, we survived, mainly through wearing most of the layers of clothes we had brought.

So, how chilly was it?  I´d say about an inch and a half!

Icebergs from the Grey Lake Glacier

Spectacular Sunset to end the Tour

Tuesday, 5 June 2012

Cruising Towards Antarctica

OK, the above title may be quite hypocritical....on two counts!

Firstly, the term "cruising" implies a somewhat lavish lifestyle - We booked a basic shared cabin on a ferry primarily designed for freight shipment.

View from our cabin?

Secondly, whilst a number of Antarctic tours/expeditions set off from the port we are heading for, Antarctica is some way off! In fact, since Chile claims a pie wedge of Antarctica (all the way to the South Pole), there is even a monument at Punta Arenas (from where we fly back to Santiago) which marks the notional midpoint of the Chilean nation.

And so we boarded our ferry, capable of accommodating 300, a few days ago, to meet the rest of our fellow passengers.....all three of them!!

An American (Now living in New Zealand), his Nicaraguan girlfriend (little English and reluctant to speak what she knew!) and a Japanese student (also speaking little English).

Sounds like the making of a joke?......Though not the best combination for scintillating conversation at mealtimes!

Snow-capped Nick (& Mountains)

Nevertheless, this relative isolation seems to have complimented the remoteness of our journey through the complex maze of uninhabited islands which characterises the Chilean coastline down to the tip of the South American continent.

The voyage has also shown the amazing unpredictability of the climate and conditions. We were expecting the  cold, being so far south and during their winter season. But having boarded in torrential rain, we have experienced clear, calm and even sunny weather, which then yielded to a final day´s snow blizzard.

We were also granted a treat, being allowed to visit the main town on route, Peurto Eden (albeit for a mere 40 minutes..at night), which boasts a population of 120!

Granted shore leave - for good behaviour

Overall, the journey has been spectacular as we have slowly ambled our way through scenes of emptiness. However, even for this supposedly experienced traveller, naivety still manages to raise its head! I had hoped to pass by the foot of glaciers as portrayed on the ferry company´s website.....This was confirmed to reflect a diversion from the main route, a practice which only happens in the summer season!

In the meantime, the slow progress of the days have inevitably revolved around the meantime structure, The PA announcements for which have forced us to stop our incessant circuits of the deck, our reading or in Nick's case, his drinking!

Friday, 1 June 2012

Communication Blackout

This morning, we head for Puerto Montt to catch our ferry futher southwards.....The highlight of the trip.

Four days, three nights meandering through the fragmented Patagonian coastline & waterways down to the tip of the South American continent.

This also means four days without internet access......How will we ever survive!!

Whilst instant communication is fantastic, I really think that the value of travelling has lost a great deal at the same time. In past & previous lives, we had to rely on the hope of a letter waiting for us at a large city Post Office. Now it´s just too easy!

So now I just have the challenge of putting up with Nick in our solitary confinement cabin aboard what is little more than a converted freight ship. Wish me luck!