Back to the Future!

And so this reunion has finally reached its conclusion...

Maybe for Nick, it was the therapy for a mid-life crisis....For me, I'm simply too old for such things!

Nevertheless, it has been brilliant to share the experience together, especially since our meeting up has been somewhat sporadic in recent years. So, thank you Nick for coming up with the idea and sorting out most of the arrangements.

It´s been a lot of fun travelling, eating and drinking our way down the country.

But all good things come to an end.....and tonight, I had to send Nick back to the future!

Not your Normal Time Traveller Image!

Since he is now travelling westwards across the International Date Line back to Australia, he will effectively lose a whole day - Thursday 7th June 2012 will never have happened in his lifetime! As he bypasses straight into Friday 8th June....A true time traveller....and not a DeLorean car in sight!

As for me, my flight leaves tomorrow afternoon.....And I can't wait to see my three lovely girls.

I may have used this blog to make fun of them, but love them to bits!

See you very soon.

It would have been Criminal to Miss this One!

The Lonely Planet guide book describes the Torres del Paine as the best National Park in South America.

Therefore, having reached a point within 70 kms of this attraction, we surely could not ignore such a claim.

With a clear day specifically set aside, we immediately set about organising our trip to this National Park as soon as we disembarked from our ferry at Peurto Natales.

Much to our disgust, the travel agents appeared totally apathetic. With so few tourists around in this "low" season, I would have expected them to be chasing what little business was about. However, our initial enquiries were met with responses that any day trips needed a minimum of 3 people....but they seemed reluctant to chase around for that third booking themselves!

Neither did they have a clue as to weather forecasts as a gauge to what we might be able to see if we ever reached the park. Indeed, the chances were more likely that cloud cover would be down and we wouldn't see the famous mountain peaks as portrayed on the covers of our guide books.

We were far from giving up, though time was running out since the trips normally left at 7.30am.

Luckily, our perseverance paid off......Braving the continuing blizzard, we took a side turning in town towards a main square, and discovered another travel agent, who was both incredibly helpful and was able to take our booking (and at a cheaper price than our earlier attempts).

This was not the only good fortune fate decided to lay our way...

The weather conditions for the trip could not have been better - exceptional for the time of year.

With a decent layer of snow on the ground, the skies were completely clear the whole day, providing perfect views of the Park´s famous mountain peaks.

Torres Del Paine National Park

Herd of Guanacos (Llama family)

The day reflected the true artistry of the elements, from the stunning views of the snow capped mountains, almost falsely blue-coloured ice bergs from the glaciers and finally, an amazing sunset canvass.

There was a price to pay, with the fierce, rasping and icy winds reminding us of our location. But, we survived, mainly through wearing most of the layers of clothes we had brought.

So, how chilly was it?  I´d say about an inch and a half!

Icebergs from the Grey Lake Glacier

Spectacular Sunset to end the Tour

Cruising Towards Antarctica

OK, the above title may be quite hypocritical....on two counts!

Firstly, the term "cruising" implies a somewhat lavish lifestyle - We booked a basic shared cabin on a ferry primarily designed for freight shipment.

View from our cabin?

Secondly, whilst a number of Antarctic tours/expeditions set off from the port we are heading for, Antarctica is some way off! In fact, since Chile claims a pie wedge of Antarctica (all the way to the South Pole), there is even a monument at Punta Arenas (from where we fly back to Santiago) which marks the notional midpoint of the Chilean nation.

And so we boarded our ferry, capable of accommodating 300, a few days ago, to meet the rest of our fellow passengers.....all three of them!!

An American (Now living in New Zealand), his Nicaraguan girlfriend (little English and reluctant to speak what she knew!) and a Japanese student (also speaking little English).

Sounds like the making of a joke?......Though not the best combination for scintillating conversation at mealtimes!

Snow-capped Nick (& Mountains)

Nevertheless, this relative isolation seems to have complimented the remoteness of our journey through the complex maze of uninhabited islands which characterises the Chilean coastline down to the tip of the South American continent.

The voyage has also shown the amazing unpredictability of the climate and conditions. We were expecting the  cold, being so far south and during their winter season. But having boarded in torrential rain, we have experienced clear, calm and even sunny weather, which then yielded to a final day´s snow blizzard.

We were also granted a treat, being allowed to visit the main town on route, Peurto Eden (albeit for a mere 40 minutes..at night), which boasts a population of 120!

Granted shore leave - for good behaviour

Overall, the journey has been spectacular as we have slowly ambled our way through scenes of emptiness. However, even for this supposedly experienced traveller, naivety still manages to raise its head! I had hoped to pass by the foot of glaciers as portrayed on the ferry company´s website.....This was confirmed to reflect a diversion from the main route, a practice which only happens in the summer season!

In the meantime, the slow progress of the days have inevitably revolved around the meantime structure, The PA announcements for which have forced us to stop our incessant circuits of the deck, our reading or in Nick's case, his drinking!

Communication Blackout

This morning, we head for Puerto Montt to catch our ferry futher southwards.....The highlight of the trip.

Four days, three nights meandering through the fragmented Patagonian coastline & waterways down to the tip of the South American continent.

This also means four days without internet access......How will we ever survive!!

Whilst instant communication is fantastic, I really think that the value of travelling has lost a great deal at the same time. In past & previous lives, we had to rely on the hope of a letter waiting for us at a large city Post Office. Now it´s just too easy!

So now I just have the challenge of putting up with Nick in our solitary confinement cabin aboard what is little more than a converted freight ship. Wish me luck!

The Chilean Lake District

This beautiful area 1000km south of Santiago has its hidden dangers - many of the buildings were demolished in the 1960 terremoto or earthquake.  There are now signs telling you where to run to.

Valdivia

You might notice the lack of tourists - there are almost none here.  We almost have the place to ourselves.  Why?  It is almost mid-winter and the cloud has never lifted enough for us to see the volcanoes that drew us here.

Niebla

Thinking of Loved ones back home!

There comes a certain time when travelling when the mind starts to wander towards those we are missing back home.

And so that moment arose when we reached the river port town of Valdivia.

Standing on the river bank, taking in the unique view, provided a poignant reminder of the loving wife I´d left behind in Birmingham.......

But what could possibly have prompted me of her charm, affection and mannerisms?......

The resemblance s quite uncanny!

Along with the posture!

After my previous posts to this blog, some warned me against going on any more extreme activities.

However, you must appreciate I am very experienced to the ultimate type of extreme activity....

Wife-Baiting (Safer to participate from afar!)

Chilean Wine Tasting

Chile produces more wine than.... lots of places, but its quality needed testing.  From one wine tour to the next we checked the Carminere and the Late Harvests, the Merlot and the Syrrah.  The verdict - the more you pay the better the wine.  And there is also the national drink "Pisco Sour" to taste - this turned out to be just like a Brazilian caipirinha, and just as strong.

Pisco Sour

One of the better wines from Concha y Torro

Grahame´s seafood platter eventually defeated him

Showers & Hot Baths

Being a volcanic region, Pucon boasts a multitude of thermal springs.

However, before we could enjoy the environment of  relaxation promoted, we had to endure a severe soaking in the heaviest rain we have experienced here to date......

But, it was a price worth paying to enjoy a hot bath outside in the continuing rain, sharing the whole resort with just a couple of American students and an ageing hippy/philosopher!

In fact, the rain added to the whole experience, particularly since it was not that cold when we emerged from our wallowing in these natural hot tubs.

Bathing in the rain

The setting was quite amazing, with a river closely raging past and all around a beautiful steep valley sporting its Autumn colours.

Yours truly enjoying a hot bath

Beautiful Autumn Setting

How could we have been so Irresponsible?

It all started out in the interests of having a bit of fun and excitement.....

Two middle-aged guys, away from their loving families, taking on the challenge of the torrents of glacial waters flowing down from the mighty Andes Mountains.

Everything started off so calmly. We were even impressed by the professionalism of the rafting operator as they handed out life jackets, in addition to the disclaimer forms!

Alas, the tranquil waters of our starting point on the river severely masked the dangers lurking ahead......

Nick modelling all the latest safety gear Chile has to offer

Now testing that safety gear

Should we request a refund?

Having now created the suspense, I guess you´re maybe inquisitive as to the identity of this sorry individual above.

The good news (for me anyway!) is that "lightning doesn¨t strike twice"!

Even more good news is that I will not feel obliged to hang around a local hospital for Nick!

So, we can both move on with our trek southwards...........

Avoiding Another Insurance Claim!

Having fractured my right hip skiing in Spain last January, my good wife, Louise, sent me off on this trip with clear instructions, "No Skiing"! A bit harsh and autocratic maybe, but that´s just her way!

Therefore, quite obediently, we have resisted the temptation to visit any of the numerous ski resorts Chile has had to offer along our journey south so far.

Instead, we have now ended up at Pucon, the outdoor adventure capital of Chile´s lake district!

However, low season, effectively means that there´s virtually nobody else around and we´re holed up in our cosy little hostel watching the torrential rain and winds outside! You may think that this makes this place as appealling as a wet weekend in Southend, but we´re not going to be deterred by a bit of adverse weather.

Cold & Wet in Downtown Pucon

Our initial plan was scuppered by the confirmation that all trips to the active volcano rim had been cancelled. So we immediately reconsidered our options over a beer or two, and decided to try and book the rafting and thermal springs excursions......Obviously, it was Nick who cagolled me into the rafting!

With all the rain, there have been doubts as to the suitability of the river. Our other problem is in the agent finding enough other victims people to make up the minimum number for a raft. We were supposed to go at 11 am this morning, but this has now been put back to 3 pm. In the meantime, we  have trudged round town, which gave us the opportunity to check out the local hospital!

Nick in the Clouds

This could be a real test of friendship if one of us were to have a mishap whilst rafting.......Would either one of us stay put in this town (obviously waiting for the respective wife to come rushing to their hospital bed) or simply move on so as not to miss the ferry booking next Friday?

Jet Lag in Santiago

Quite surprisingly, I felt pretty good after my 16 hours flying from the UK (via a changeover in Paris), having slept most of the night flight. In stark contrast, Nick was still very much struggling to come to terms with his jet lag, having crossed a mere 14 hours of time zones!

Accordingly, we had a gentle start to the trip, exploring the capital city, Santiago, yesterday - A pleasant enough place with an impressive backdrop of the snow-capped Andes, though not overly amazing.

Nonetheless, a good place to catch up over some good food and wine.....

And for the really sad, to check e-mails at the hotel!

A Friend in Need!

As I prepare to fly off to Chile this evening, you may well ask whether this is yet another extravagent holiday.

Certainly not! This is purely a selfless act of helping a friend in need, who coincidently also needed to escape from his own family!

Nick Terry, a long-standing family friend, now lives and works in Brisbane, Australia. Around 2 months ago, he e-mailed me with the news that he had suddenly been made redundant and had decided to take three months out to recharge his batteries and to spend more time with his wife, Liz, and three lovely daughters. 


Nick (Obviously in his Younger Days!)

To my surprise, he also came up with the proposition of meeting up in Chile for a couple of weeks....
He may well profess to be enjoying the Aussie lifestyle (with his Tom Daly impression above), but I can't see him sporting that gear in the icy fjords of Chile!

In spite of still recovering from a fractured hip from a skiing accident back in January, how could I decline that heartfelt and desperate plea for help?......and allow him to drink beers all alone in those Santiago bars!

So, a plan slowly started to evolve. Whilst I had previously visited Chile very briefly (23 years ago!), I didn't really know much about the country....apart from General Pinochet, the wine and more recently, the rescue of trapped miners.

However, now I am looking forward to finding out what a diverse country it really is. One particular highlight should be our 4 day ferry trip which takes us through the fjords and past glaciers almost to the southern tip of the continent.

Apart from that, I must admit that Nick has done all the hard grafting in researching where to go and making the appropriate bookings. However, I still enjoy the freedom of just turning up in a new place and sorting out where to stay on arrival.

Once again, my main concern is how my own girls will cope over the next weeks without me! At least it will provide a temporary boom in the local economy with all that extra business for the Kings Heath & Moseley take-aways!